Eventyrland
Eventyrland, 5 pitches, 230 m, M7, WI5.
History: This line was probably climbed long time ago by the famous british alpinist Doug Scott together with two Norwegians (we have unsucsessfully tried to get this verified by the norwegians). They did however not climb the interesting roof in the first pitch. The variation sketched below was climbed onsight by Mikjel Thorsrud and Kristen Reagen 12/2-2006, and the grade was verified a few weeks later by the Petzl team.
Description: An adventurous alpine climb where the first 100 meters consists of mix climbing with some snow and ice. The upper pitches are mainly on ice. The five pitches gives you everything: steep drytooling on your own protection, classical alpine climbing, snow gullies and an overhanging ice dihedral!!
Rack: - your usual assortement of ice-screws, including a few short (10 cm). -Cams: 1 serie from blue alien to #3 Camalot (blue, green and yellow alien recommended). -1 set of nuts, 1 set of mini-nuts. -Several 120 slings and/or cordelettes.
Where: Located at Svenkerud, the little place 6 km south from Gol on RV 7. The line is not hard to see from the road. Approach: 20 min.
Check photo-albume!
Topo:
Pitch 1: 55m, M7. First a 20 meter thin ice slab, followed by a short traverse right to the overhanging dihedral with the wide crack. Climb the roof (M7). After the roof, follow snow and try to find a belay (we found a belay after 70 meters and slightly off-route).
Pitch 2: 55 m. M5. Classical alpine climbing, quality! Belay after 55 m. Very nice pitch although not hard!
Pitch 3: 55m ice climbing, WI4.
Pitch 4: Traverse right and take belay (aliens might be useful) at the bottom of the dihedral (35 meters).
Pitch 5: 30m, WI5. Climb the dihedral and subsequently the slightly overhanging ice to the top! Quality!
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